Sunday, 23 August 2009
Intelligent eyelining - make it simple and effective
The issue of water resistant Gel liner formulas.
Well firstly lets discuss some Pros and Cons:
 Dries so fast minimises smudges
 Water resistant finish and will last without smudges
 Will last through the day to evening with no retouch required
 Will not crack and flake like liquids tend to
 Dries quickly into the brush restricting line artistry
 If you do not return the cap the product will dry out
 Difficult to remove mistakes without effort.
 Not flattering on mature eyes
So what are we trying to achieve with an eyeliner? Really the core purpose is to define the lid, yet often if the line is poorly executed the line is distractive at best and poorly applied at worst. So how about a technique to technically define the eye perfectly every time?
Often when I'm teaching eyelining skills, students get so frustrated when they cannot achieve the perfect symmetrical line. [Well of course it doesn't help that the educator can do it and make it look effortless because they have years of experience on their side.] Its just a case of correct brush and a steady hand teamed up with practice.Well trust me even the most experienced of us can stil have bad liner days. Usually at the blame of coffee and caffeine wobbles ;). Generally a more stable brush is easier to control with a more firm synthetic bristle but experiment with different shapes until one seems controllable.MAC#263 or #266 seem the favourites amongst attendees at the school.
A great way to define the upper eye line and enhance the lashes for a photographic finish [+ if you are not confident in your upper liner technique] is to apply the water resistant liner under the upper lashes. Makes lashes look fuller. It will dry and not transfer into the lower eyeline. [I would advise doing this and letting it dry before contact lense insertion for those of you who wear lenses]
 Look upward to position the upper lashes in the correct position
 Position your brush + gel liner under the lash and at the start of your natural lash growth
 Work from inner corner to outer edge under the upper lash along the lid edge
 Actually print the gel liner up onto the inner rim of the upper lid using a small detail brush such as a Jemma Kidd pro #1 or #2 or a MAC#263
 Repeat and strengthen colour for impact
 Black will be most dramatic but softer shades also are effective
Bobbi Brown was the original gel liner and is still one of my favourites although the MAC Fluidline is also good. Depends which specific shades you are looking for.
Black Mauve Shimmer Long wear gel liner by Bobbi Brown is my favourite a great universal shade that defines without overpowering the eye or make up. Really a great alternative to classical grey, black and brown.
A little less assuming yet cleverly defining. The definitive edge.
Give it a try!